Calgary Garden Coach

daffodils

hummingbird feeders

This is new for me this year, but since I am planting a hummingbird/butterfly garden, I'd better have a hummingbird feeder too!  According to my Mom, the bird expert, it's time to put the feeders out now as the hummingbirds will be migrating through Calgary soon.  Apparently once they find one, they'll return to the same spot year after year. 

how to plant perennials

Here's my back hill renovation in progress.

Design tips

Besides the basic rules of "place sun-lovers in sun and shade-lovers in shade" and "don't plant one of everything", the key thing is to make sure you leave enough space between plants.  Sure, those perennials are small right now (especially if you buy the cheap ones, like me), but check the tag to see how big they are going to get and resist the urge to pack them in too tightly.  Plants that are too close together may lack air circulation and be more susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew, not to mention the fact that in a couple years they'll be too big and you'll have to dig them all up again.  If you like the tightly packed look, throw some annuals in between to fill the spaces for a few years, otherwise add mulch to keep the weeds down.  In a few years when the plants are bigger, they'll cover the bare spots and keep the weeds down themselves.

Planting tips

Plant in the morning or evening or on a cloudy day, to reduce the stress on the plants.  Dig a hole twice the size of the plant's pot and throw a couple of handfuls of compost and one handful of bonemeal in the bottom of the hole.  There, you've just fertilized your plant for the first year at least.  If the plant is rootbound, loosen the roots before planting, then back fill with the soil.  Be sure to water plenty in the first few days after planting, and regularly for the first year until the plant is well-established. 

so many perennials, so little time

Finally!  Good weather!  I'm getting tired of moving the annuals in and out of the house every day to harden them off.  There's no frost in sight in the 5 day forecast.  While that doesn't mean it's safe to put annuals in the ground yet (the recommended time is May 24), perennials can be planted now.

I've got a big new garden area to fill, so I browsed for a few new perennials today and was quite well-behaved - only came home with one thing that I have no idea where I'm going to put it (but a $2.99 perennial!  I couldn't resist!!).  I then went for a haircut and my hairdresser insisted that she'd heard on the Breakfast Show today that it will be too soon to plant this week-end.  I tried to explain to her that they were probably talking about annuals, not perennials, and what the difference was, but she didn't hear me.  She did go on at length about some new line of hair products that was entirely boring to me.  I guess that's why she's a hairdresser and I'm a garden coach...

organic pest treatments

• compost - Most store-bought fertilizers are inorganic and don't contain micronutrients that are also required by plants.  Add organic fertilizers (also seaweed, Turkey Trot, animal and mushroom manures) to feed the soil, not the plants.  Ultimately, plants will be so healthy that they won't be as susceptible to pests.
• diatomaceous earth - a sharp dust that cuts the soft bodies of slugs as they travel over it
• baking soda - a tsp to a litre of water, with a drop of dish detergent added, can be sprayed on leaves with blackspot (roses) or powdery mildew.  It won't cure them, but will keep the diseases from spreading.

compost bin sale

Calgary's annual backyard composter sale is June 21, 8am to 4 pm.

If you don't compost yet, why not?  It's easy.

I've had this particular bin in the past and the one thing I found is that it benefits from a little more air.  If you have a drill or hole saw, cut some extra holes all around the sides of the composter for better air circulation.

composting is not complicated

Calgary is finally getting around to organizing curbside recycling pickup, but unlike Edmonton, will not be picking up compostable waste.  The argument is that it is much better environmentally to have people compost in their own homes or backyards than to spend the energy and emissions trucking it around the city.  Yes, it is, I just hope people actually do it.

One reason why people don't is because it sounds complicated.  There are recipes out there about what ratios of dry and wet (browns and greens) you should have.  Yes, these recipes work if you want to make compost fast.  If you don't care about speed, all you really need is a place to make a pile.  That's it.  You don't even need a bin.  Just throw organic kitchen waste, leaves, coffee grounds, egg shells and even dryer lint on your pile.  If you're willing to do a tiny amount of extra work, keeping it moist (about as wet as a wrung-out sponge) and turning it once in a while will really speed up the process. 

If you're in an apartment, vermicomposting is a great way to go - you can make compost for your houseplants or to share with friends.  There is more information posted on this Calgary company's site.

what can I grow under my spruce tree?

The problem with trying to grow something (including grass) under a spruce tree, is not the acidic needles (they don't affect the soil much and Calgary's soil is alkaline anyway), but that it is dry, dry, dry.  Not only do the branches prevent much rain from reaching the ground, but the extensive root systems suck up all the water around the tree. 

In my opinion, the best thing to do is to put down some mulch (bark chips or shredded bark), and let the cones and needles fall where they may.  Don't let someone tell you to plant moisture-loving shade plants such as hostas and ferns under a spruce - you will be doomed to failure (sorry Melanie and Megan, if you're reading this)!!  If you really want to try to grow something (good luck and be prepared to water), try something that is extremely drought tolerant:

for sun:

• snow-in-summer

for shade:

• epimedium (also called barrenwort and bishop's hat)
• lamiastrum
• goutweed (but beware it will spread invasively if it is not contained)
• lily of the valley (same caveat as above)

tulipa tarda

While definately not as showy as the more commonly known hybrid tulips, these species tulips have the benefits of multiplying over time, and not leaving giant ugly yellowing leaves in the garden once they're finished blooming.  I inherited these in a weed-infested rock garden when I moved into my current house, and they were one of the few things that had survived in a garden that had obviously been neglected for many years. 

These, as well as other spring-blooming bulbs, should be planted in the fall.

did I jinx it?

Yes, I know the world doesn't revolve around me, but for both April and May now, the day after I posted the monthly to-do list, it snowed.  Coincidence?  And what should I do for June?

iris reticulata combos

These irises started blooming before the crocuses finished, and they looked great together.  I love blue and yellow combos!  Also, you can see a bit of the chartreuse ground cover "sedum angelina" in front which provides more yellow contrast even after the crocuses are finished. 

iris reticulata

These small, bulbous irises can be planted in the fall.  Like the crocuses, they bloom early and then disappear, so don't leave a big hole or mess in the garden later on.  They come in shades of blue, purple and yellow, but as always, I am partial to blue.

Also like the crocuses, these are planted in my sunny, dry south garden which gets minimal care.  Good partners are crocuses (these started blooming before the crocuses finished) and ground covers such as sedums.

May to-do list

This is the busiest month!!  If you can get major changes, planting, fertilizing and weeding done now, you can take it easy and enjoy your garden for the summer.  Seriously!! 

• Begin hardening off annuals in a protected area; bring indoors at night if frost is predicted.
• Plant frost-tolerant annuals.
• Plant up containers that are small enough to be moved indoors if frost threatens.
• Get lawn power-raked and aerated (see more comments here).  Top dress lawn and garden with compost: 2” on garden beds and rake ¼” onto lawns.  If using synthetic fertilizer, apply a slow-release lawn fertilizer in mid-May (any earlier and it will get lost in run-off before the ground is warm enough to activate it – a waste and not very environmentally friendly, either).  If planning to seed or overseed your lawn, wait till June.
• Shop, shop, shop!  Perennials can be hardened off and planted any time.  The garden centres have lots of bare root and bulb packages of common perennials at this time of year – you won’t get the instant gratification of planting leafy, blooming perennials in the garden, but they are way cheaper this way – think of the energy saved in transportation, too!.  Choose from hostas, dayliliies, lilies, echinacea and rudbeckia, liatris, and more.
• Existing perennials in the garden can be dug up, moved, divided or shared any time.  Generally, fall-blooming perennials should be moved in spring, and spring-blooming perennials should be moved in fall.  But that’s only if you want to ensure best bloom – go ahead and move spring-blooming plants now if you’re willing to sacrifice a few blooms.  Ideally, most spring planting and replanting should be done in May, so the monsoons of June can water them in and they’ll be well-established before the heat of summer.
• Plant hardy vegetables such as peas, beets, and spinach in early May.
• Prune roses.  Remove dead, diseased or decayed branches.  Cut off any tip-kill, just above an outward-facing bud.
• Stay on top of the weeds.  This is probably most important!!  If you lack time, at least pull off the tops so that they don’t set seed.  Weed seeds, June rain and gardening do not mix well.  Trust me, you will save huge time later on. 

frost-tolerant annuals

Everybody thinks that May 24 is the time to plant annuals outside.  Why wait?  I know I can’t.  I need colour now!!  There are lots of annuals that are frost tolerant.  You can buy them now, harden them off for a week or so (less, if you’re impatient like me), and get them in pots or in the ground next week.  These are some of my faves:

• Pansies and violas - these can stand 10 degrees of frost and can generally go outside mid-April.  They would have made it through our late spring blizzard this year no problem.  Note that they don’t do well in the heat of the summer, but if you cut them back in summer they’ll greet you with more flowers in the fall.  Flowers are edible.
• Snapdragons - my favourite because they look good all summer, and flower right until October, providing much-needed late fall colour as well.  I always plant the medium height (2’) varieties because they don’t need staking – I’m all about low maintenance!
• Dusty miller – great for its silvery foliage colour all season, and drought tolerant too.
• Dianthus (pinks) and carnations
• Ornamental cabbage and kale – these are planted for their fall foliage colours, but can go in now.

crocus companions

I like to plant crocuses around ground covers such as sedums (shown here) and snow-in-summer.  They pop through the ground covers with no problem, and then when they're done the ground covers grow and hide them.

Then hens and chicks shown (green succulents) are evergreen.  This combination is growing on the dry, sunny side of the house that gets no extra water and very little rain.  All these plants take care of themselves.

what is hardening off?

As soon as it is nice (above 10 degrees), you can start putting your seedlings or greenhouse purchases outside.  The plants are very tender, or "soft", from being grown in an indoor environment.  If you started your own seedling, they may also be getting a little leggy (stretched) from not enough light.

But you can't just put them outside in full sun right away - well you can, but they won't like it!  They will burn - just like me (fortunately, I remembered to put sunscreen on yesterday!). 

So set them outside in a sheltered location (shade and shelter from too much wind).  Start with 30 minutes in shade, increasing to a couple hours over several days.  Then start putting them in sun for 10-15 minutes each day, increasing by 15 minutes per day, then back in the shade.  The sun and breeze will harden them up.  If you have perennials, they will be ready to go outside in a week or so.  The traditional date for planting annuals outside is May 24, but you can plant them earlier if you're willing to cover them up or move pots inside anytime there's risk of frost.

Sounds like a lot of work, I know.  But it's only for a week or two and your plants will thank you by not going into shock. 

scilla siberica

  This picture doesn't do them justice because it was taken in the bright sunlight, but little siberian squill are a brilliant electric blue, so I love them (blue is my favourite colour). 

Other advantages are that they are so small, you can plant them anywhere and they don't interfere with the perennials or look ugly when they're dying down.  Also, they multiply!!  What more could you ask for?

They are planted as bulbs in the fall.

spring at last!

It's hard to believe that yesterday morning there was still snow on the ground!  By the afternoon it was sunny and 20. 

But the plants are all fine, including these tulips and the crocuses that were blooming before the snow and cold came (a week ago!).

I got my garden fork out at last yesterday, and moved 2 perennials and 3 shrubs.  Fun fun fun!  It's too early to put new plants from a greenhouse in the ground, but anything that is already growing outside won't be shocked by the move.

Enough already!

A week of snow and temperatures continuously below freezing.  The worst april on record for a loooooooong time!

I am way behind on my gardening plans!!! 

Someday I will be posting beautiful pictures of plants that do well in Calgary... in the meantime here are some of my lilacs encased in ice.  Sigh.

Why Bother? by Michael Pollan

I recommend anything by Michael Pollan, and here's a recent article from the NY Times Mag's Green issue:

Michael Pollan's "Why Bother?" makes the case for gardening, arguing that: "Measured against the Problem We Face, planting a garden sounds pretty benign, I know, but in fact it’s one of the most powerful things an individual can do — to reduce your carbon footprint, sure, but more important, to reduce your sense of dependence and dividedness: to change the cheap-energy mind."

... makes my husband's wacky idea of raising chickens in the city seem like a great idea... (almost?)